About This PageThe first step to any swap is to determine what you have, then decide what you want. Please read this page as there is quite a bit of information. Every situation may or may not be unique and I can not guarantee that everything here will be exact in what is required for a transmission swap, but every effort is made to make sure the information is as complete and accurate as possible. It is preferred that questions be posted on the FordSix.com forums so that everyone can benefit from it, but I will respond to emails as best as I can.
Motor Recognition
This swap information page is divided up into several sections; 144/170/200 (pre-BB200), BB200 and 250. The 144 and 170 in most cases are identified as having 3 mounting bolts holding the water pump on and 3 freeze plugs on the passenger's side of the block under the exhaust manifold. The 200 is identified as having 3 water pump bolts and 5 freeze plugs on the passenger's side of the block, in most cases. The BB200 is the early 80's version of the 200 which has the starter down low next to the oil pan whereas the previous 200 has the starter up higher. The 250 is recognized as having 4 mounting bolts for the water pump, 5 freeze plugs on the passenger's side of the block and a low starter next to the oil pan.
Swap Info
For the 144/170/200 (Pre-BB200), there is one bell housing pattern consistent throughout all the years which was specific for the automatic transmissions and early manual transmissions. In 1966, 2 additional holes were added to the block to allow for larger bell housings and flywheel. There is more information on the History page. The BB200 has 2/3rds of a V8 pattern, but still has the 200 6-cyl crank. The 250 has the same bolt pattern as the SBF, so any SBF V8 bell housing and flywheel will bolt up. It is important to remember that with any flywheel behind a Ford inline 6, they must have a zero imbalance because the motor is internally balanced.
* There were at least 8 different bell housings used behind these motors throughout the years, make sure you know which one you have. I can not tell you what bell housing you have, you must figure out what you have, but there are pictures here for you to reference.
Check the number of bolts starter mounting bolts. There should be either 2 or 3.
3-Bolt Starter
For the following swaps, you retain your existing:
- Flywheel
- Bell housing (exceptions listed)
- Block plate
- Starter
- Clutch Fork
- Pressure Plate (although is is recommended that you replace your pressure plate when you replace your clutch disk).** It is recommended that during the swap, you have your flywheel resurfaced and also replace your pressure plate. The few dollars more that it may cost you are well worth the time and cost that may be needed later if there is a problem with these parts. For the flywheel, when you have it resurfaced, make sure that BOTH surfaces of the flywheel have the same amount of material removed. The flywheel is an 8 1/2" recessed style flywheel and the pressure plate mounting surface is not the same surface as the clutch surface. Failure to do this may result in a slipping clutch. At the same time, have the flywheel checked for a zero imbalance.
For the following swaps, you need the following:
- Adapter Plate (specific ones listed for each category)
- Clutch Disk (Use the 80's 4-cyl clutch disk)
* It has the 8 1/2" diameter to fit the flywheel recess and proper 1 1/16" - 10 spline for the V8
transmissions.
- Pilot Bearing
* For 3.03, Top loader, V8 T-5, SROD, use the one from a '67 Mustang, 200
* For 4-cyl T-5, use a special pilot
- Throwout Bearing ('67 Mustang, 200)For each swap, there are specifics about the yoke, shifter and driveshaft modifications listed on a 'Tranny Info' page currently in development.
These 4 bell housings all use 3-bolt starters and could be on any 144/170/200 block up to the BB200.
2.77 | Dagenham | Econoline & ? | Falcon, Fairlane & ? |
To swap the 2.77, non-synchronized 1st geared, 4-bolt top cover, 3-speed tranny used from 1960 to 1965, the parts needed in addition to the ones listed above:
3.03 3-speed, Top loader 4-speed
- Adapter PlateT-5 5-speed, 4-cyl or V8 version
- Adapter Plate
- CrossmemberSROD 4-speed
- Adapter PlateTremec 3550 5-Speed
- Adapter Plate(s) and/or Input Shaft modifications
- Crossmember
To swap the English Dagenham 4-speed used up to 1966, the parts needed in addition to the ones listed above are shown below. Adapter plates are now available that will allow retrofits with the Dagenham bell. With this bell housing, the transmission is bolted from the inside of the bell housing. The adapter plate hardware kit includes an alignment tool that allows you to install the adapter plate and bolt it from the inside of the bell housing. Once that is done, the bell housing can be reinstalled on to the motor and the transmission bolted up.
3.03 3-speed, Top loader 4-speed
- Adapter PlateT-5 5-speed, 4-cyl or V8 version
- Adapter Plate
- CrossmemberSROD 4-speed
- Adapter Plate
Tremec 3550 5-Speed
- Adapter Plate(s) and/or Input Shaft modifications
- Crossmember
For the Econoline bell housing, a spacer is available to allow you to bolt up a 3.03 and Top loader.
3.03 3-speed, Top loader 4-speed
- Spacer PlateT-5 5-speed, 4-cyl or V8 versionFor this bell housing, what I have found is that is is made from cast iron as opposed to the other bells which are cast aluminum. The recommendation is to switch to one of the other 3-bolt starter bells and proceed from there with the retrofit.
- CrossmemberSROD 4-speed
- Adapter Plate
Tremec 3550 5-Speed
- Adapter Plate(s) and/or Input Shaft modifications
- Crossmember
|
2-Bolt StarterFor the following swaps, you retain your existing:
- Flywheel
- Bell housing (exceptions listed)
- Clutch disk (except '66)
- Block plate
- Starter
- Clutch Fork
- Pressure Plate (although is is recommended that you replace your pressure plate when you replace your clutch disk).** It is recommended that during the swap, you have your flywheel resurfaced and also replace your pressure plate. The few dollars more that it may cost you are well worth the time and cost that may be needed later if there is a problem with these parts. At the same time, have the flywheel checked for a zero imbalance.
For the following swaps, you need the following:
- Adapter Plate (specific ones listed for each category)
- Pilot Bearing
* For '66, you must change the bearing
* For 3.03, Top loader, V8 T-5, SROD, use the existing one
* For 4-cyl T-5, use a special pilot
- Throwout Bearing ('67 Mustang, 200)For each swap, there are specifics about the yoke, shifter and driveshaft modifications listed on a 'Tranny Info' page currently in development.
These 3 bell housings all use 2-bolt starters and will ONLY bolt onto C6 and later, dual pattern blocks. They utilize the upper 2 mounting holes in the block that were added in 1966. Visit the History page for more information.
This bell housing was only used in 1966 for one year in the Mustang. The transmission is recognized as having a 4-bolt top cover pattern with the 2-bolt starter. It carried over into 1967 in the Falcon and in other models. This bell housing is taller than the previous years, so in some cases, an adapter plate will not work here for some retrofits, that is why a '67 bell housing is listed under a few of the lists.
3.03 3-speed, Top loader 4-speed
- 3.03 ('67) Bell HousingT-5 5-speed, 4-cyl or V8 version
- Adapter Plate
- CrossmemberSROD 4-speed
- 3.03 ('67) Bell Housing and/or Adapter PlateTremec 3550 5-Speed
- 3.03 ('67) Bell Housing and/or Adapter Plate(s) and/or Input Shaft modifications
- Crossmember
This is the bell housing starting use in 1967 and continued well into the 70's. The fully-synchronized 3.03 3-speed was used with this bell housing (V8 version).
Top loader 4-speed
- Direct Swap, no parts neededT-5 5-speed, 4-cyl or V8 version
- Adapter Plate
- CrossmemberSROD 4-speed
- Adapter Plate (may be optional)Tremec 3550 5-Speed
- 3.03 ('67) Bell Housing and/or Adapter Plate(s) and/or Input Shaft modifications
- Crossmember
This is the bell housing starting use in the late 70's and the SROD was used behind it. This bell housing is the same height as required to use a T-5, so your best bet to installing a T-5 is to fill in the existing tranny bolts holes and redrill for the T_5 bolt pattern. You also need to open up the center hole from 4.85" to 4.91"Additional Info
You may or may not be limited to the choices listed above when looking at the 2 bolt vs. 3 bolt starter. Look at your block to determine if it has the dual pattern. In most cases, this is identified as a C6 and later block. Check out the History page for more information. If you have a 3-bolt starter and a dual pattern block, then you have additional choices. You can replace your flywheel, block plate, clutch fork, starter and pilot bushing with everything from a '67 and later 200, then follow the swap options for the '67 and later swap.
The BB200 contains 2/3rds of a V8 block pattern. This engine came originally with a C5 automatic transmission. To install a manual tranny behind this motor, you must use a SBF bell housing, flywheel and clutch setup. The flywheel must be the 157T V8 flywheel, re-balanced from a 28 or 50oz imbalance to a zero imbalance. Also, because this block still has the 200 crank, the flywheel mounting pattern must be redrilled for the 6-cyl crank. I'd suggest drilling the new holes before having the flywheel balanced.For an excellent article on a manual transmission installation behind this motor, see the Falcon Performance Handbook. It has a great article, complete with pictures showing the process.
The 250 shares the same bolt pattern on the block as the SBF (289, 302, 351W). To install a manual tranny behind this motor, you must use the SBF bell housing, flywheel and clutch setup. The flywheel must be the 157T V8 flywheel, re-balanced from a 28 or 50oz imbalance to a zero imbalance. The 250 crank has the same bolt pattern as the SBF, so the flywheel does not have to be redrilled to mount here.